Madagascar in December: rain, heat and where it still works

December is when the rainy season really gets going in Madagascar. Antananarivo averages about 226 mm of rain on 14 days, nearly twice November's total, with highs around 27 °C. The cyclone season is under way, though the riskiest months are still January to March. Some places hold out: Diego Suarez in the far north and the dry south-west coast get far less rain, while the Tsingy de Bemaraha is usually closed and Nosy Be is already wet.

So December works if you pick the right corner of the island and keep the plan short or flexible. We'd go for the rainforest at Andasibe, the far north early in the month, or both, and leave the west for the dry season. The rest of the year is in our month-by-month guide.

Madagascar weather in December, region by region

These are long-term averages, the World Meteorological Organization's normals for 1991 to 2020, so any one December can start wetter or drier.

• The highlands: warm, with the rains arriving. Antananarivo averages about 27 °C by day and 17 °C at night, with 226 mm of rain on 14 days. Antsirabe, higher up, gets about 220 mm on 16 days and nights around 15 °C.
• The eastern rainforest: wet and green. Madagascar National Parks describes November to April at Analamazaotra, in Andasibe, as a flowering season with more frequent rain. Leeches come out after rain, so tuck your trousers into your socks.
• The east coast: hot and getting wetter. Toamasina averages about 250 mm on 15 days and Île Sainte-Marie about 230 mm on 14 days, with highs near 30 °C.
• The west: hot, and only the start of the rain. Morondava averages about 90 mm on seven days, with highs of 32 °C. The big jump comes in January, at about 290 mm. The Grandidier's baobabs on the Avenue are usually in leaf from October to May.
• Isalo and the south: hot, and wetter inland. Ranohira, the village by Isalo, averages about 150 mm on 13 days and highs of 30 °C. Tulear (Toliara), on the south-west coast, gets about 35 mm on four days, with highs of 32 °C. It's the driest corner of the island.
• The far north: the end of the dry spell. Diego Suarez averages about 130 mm on nine days, highs of 32 °C. Nosy Be, off the north-west coast, gets about 300 mm on 16 days. Bradt says Montagne d'Ambre, the rainforest above Diego, is wettest from December to April.

Cyclones and roads in December

The UK Foreign Office says the cyclone season normally runs from November to April. Most storms come from January to March and hit the east and north coasts, but December isn't safe by definition: Cyclone Belna came ashore near Soalala, on the north-west coast, on 9 December 2019. Follow current Météo Madagascar warnings as the trip approaches; a seasonal outlook can't tell you whether your travel days will be affected.

The roads change too. From December to April, the Foreign Office warns, many secondary roads are impassable except in a 4x4, and bridges are often washed away. Leave a spare day before your flight home, and check your travel insurance for disruption, cancellation and evacuation cover before booking. Malaria cases rise with the rains, and the CDC recommends tablets everywhere outside Antananarivo in every month (see our vaccinations and malaria guide). More in our cyclone season guide.

Christmas and New Year in Madagascar

Most Malagasy are Christian, Protestant or Catholic, and Christmas Day and New Year's Day are both public holidays. Plan those two dates as short travel days or rest days.

For visitors, the fortnight around Christmas and New Year is one of the two busiest times of the year, with July and August. Bradt's advice is to avoid it if crowds bother you. School holiday dates vary by country and local authority, so check your own calendar before booking.

• Flights cost more. Rough Guides says fares are much higher over Christmas and New Year. Compare fares for your actual travel days and check the cost before paying for the land itinerary. More in our flights guide.
• Hotels fill first. Rough Guides warns of holiday price rises and advance bookings. Check the actual hotel availability and any supplement for your dates.

We'd ask about the first half of December before the Christmas rush. It may offer more choice of rooms and flights, but compare actual quotes. If it has to be Christmas, send us your dates early. Our prices are indicative, season is one of the things that moves the final quote, and we confirm it in writing before anything is booked.